The Little Zoldano Loop

This long circular route takes in the Val di Zoldo at low altitude, allowing you to explore villages, woods and tabià. It is a route of great historical as well as scenic interest: indeed, along the way there are numerous clues that tell the story of life in this valley, and which will reveal fascinating tales to the observant eye. As you pass through the villages, you can see old tabià (traditional rural dwellings), some abandoned and others skilfully restored, standing alongside rather unattractive houses built during the tourism boom of the 1940s and 1950s. In the woods, you may come across wayside shrines, a testament to the strong faith of past generations, the remains of lime kilns, ruins of houses and barns, and the entrances to ancient mines. The very paths we will walk are a piece of history: most of them were, in fact, once the only routes connecting the villages, before the provincial road was built in the valley floor. Observing the woodland, on the other hand, allows us to learn more about the ecosystem we are guests in: for example, why is one slope abundant with deciduous trees, whilst conifers prevail on the other?

The best way to discover all these stories is to follow this fascinating route in the company of a guide who can help you interpret the landscape.

Length: 18.4 km

Elevation gain: 1160 m

Technical difficulty: easy

Estimated time: 5–6 hours

Lowest altitude: Forno di Zoldo, 870 m

Highest altitude: Colcerver, 1250 m

Facilities: there is a bar and a restaurant in Dont. Check opening times, as they are often closed in spring.

Itinerary

The following description outlines my favourite route, starting from Forno di Zoldo and following a counter-clockwise loop. The reasons I prefer this route are: the availability of plenty of free parking, the presence of many cafés to start the day or finish with an ice cream (even if it’s low season and many are on holiday, you can always find at least one open!), and the chance to visit the Iron and Nail Museum at the end of the day. However, there is nothing to stop you from walking the same loop starting from any other village along the route (Dont, Fusine, La Villa...) or walking it in the opposite direction.

Let’s start from Forno di Zoldo; I recommend parking opposite the pharmacy (half the spaces are time-limited, but the other half are free). Before setting off, you can grab a coffee and pop into the Marcon bakery and the nearby butcher’s to make yourself some delicious sandwiches. Then take Via Carrera and follow the tarmac road for an initial steep stretch, up to the village of Astragal. Climb up to the hamlet of Lignot to the little church, and continue along Via Col, ignoring the signs pointing towards Monte Punta. Once past the last houses, the road enters the woods, turning into a pleasant forest track. Walk up a gentle slope until you cross a pretty little wooden bridge, then descend towards the village of La Villa. Walking through this woodland in spring is truly delightful; the birdsong will be your soundtrack, whilst you feast your eyes on the brilliant green of the first leaves and the colours of the wildflowers. Every now and then, the woodland offers glimpses of the Spiz behind you and the Moiazza di Fonte.

Once you reach the villa, walk through the village to the little church (every small village here has one, a testament to the faith of past generations) and continue along the old road to Nosgieda. A steep climb leads to an old barn; once past it, leave the road and take the footpath, which will take you to the small abandoned village of Nosgieda (you can also continue along the road, but this will add quite a bit to the journey).Proseguite in falso piano fino al paese successivo: Iral.

Now it’s time to change direction: from Iral, head down to the provincial road, make your way to Fusine and take Via del Cristo. After the bridge, turn left towards the cemetery, keep to the right of the outer wall and follow the forest track (a signpost points towards Cercenà). The track continues on a gentle slope to the small village of Cercenà.

This is a real gem in the woods, where historic houses and art come together in this timeless setting. The route continues through the woods, on a gentle incline, all the way to Foppa. Once again, pass through the village until you reach the main road; follow it for a few metres to the village of Pradel, and here turn right towards Sottorogno. Once you’ve passed the houses, follow the path leading to Dont, but before entering the village, take the path that climbs to the right (signposted for Colcerver). Now comes a steep climb, which will take you round the side of Col Baion, up to the village of Colcerver. This too is a real gem, with its ancient tabià and spectacular views. Walk through the village and you’ll find a steep path that soon takes you to Pralongo. You’re almost there now, and I bet you’re starting to feel the fatigue. Cross the little bridge and take Via Sant’Andrea, following the signpost for Forno. Walk alongside the campsite for a short stretch, then take the path that will lead you to the little church of Sant’Antonio Abate, just a few metres before the car park from which you set off this morning.

After a day spent exploring the valley, it would be perfect to add a visit to the Iron and Nail Museum in Forno. Here you’ll find fascinating insights into the valley’s mining and steel-making history, brought to life with passion by the volunteers. Visit the council’s website for opening times and guided tours.

Can I do this at other times of the year?

I think spring is the best time to walk this circular route, though it can be done at any time when there is no snow (it could also make for a lovely walk in a winter with little snow). In summer, it’s a good alternative to the busier or more challenging routes, but it can get very hot, so make sure you take plenty of water with you.

Variants

There are dozens of paths branching off from the one described here, so there are plenty of alternatives. With a good map, you can plan the route that suits you best. Here are a few suggestions:

• You can extend the route by adding two interesting villages: Costa and Coi. From Iral, a steep path leads to the beautiful Mas de Sabe, a 15th-century tabià, and then continues on to Costa. From here, follow the tarmac road to Brusadaz and then Coi. Here you can either head back down to Fusine, or continue along the “strada vegia” to the Hotel Maè, reach the La Palma restaurant, and from there take the path leading to Soramaè and the Fusine cemetery. It is certainly a very beautiful but substantial addition: a 300-metre climb and 9 km, so around 3 hours.

• You can, however, shorten the route slightly by skipping Colcerver. After the first stretch of the climb from Dont, instead of taking the path that continues uphill, you can stay on the forest track, which will take you directly to Pralongo.

• You can walk either the upper or lower half of the loop, going directly from La Villa to Dont.

If, on the other hand, you’re looking for a great summer adventure, you could tackle the classic Zoldano loop, a magnificent 6-day route that takes in the valley at much higher altitudes, allowing hikers to discover all the wonderful peaks that surround it, along trails that are often little-known and anything but straightforward.

Map and route

If you’d like a paper map, I recommend the Tabacco 25 map, covering the Zoldo, Cadore and Agordo Dolomites. However, I’d suggest using a good mobile app with GPX tracks.

Piccolo anello zoldano.gpx

Download GPX • 234KB

With the guide

Why take this tour with a guide if you already have all the information? A guide can take you beyond simply admiring the scenery: they can show you, teach you and explain what surrounds us. Which mountain is that? What animals live in the woods? Why are the Dolomites special? The guide will answer your questions and help you discover the history and unique features of the area. In this way, your day in the Dolomites won’t just be a walk but a real experience that you’ll remember forever.

What’s more, the guide can adjust the length and difficulty of the hike on the spot, depending on your needs. If you’re feeling particularly fit that day, or if the hike turns out to be too long, the guide can alter the route to suit how you’re feeling, thanks to their in-depth knowledge of the area. Besides, sometimes it’s nice to just relax without having to think about where to go or how far you’ve got left! The guide will help you choose the right equipment and advise you on where to hire hiking boots and clothing if necessary.

For certain locations, I offer a pick-up service from your hotel. That way, you won’t have to worry about driving, the route or your kit, and you can enjoy the day without a care in the world! To book this or other excursions with me, please visit the TAILOR-MADE EXCURSIONS page.

Disclaimer

This post is based on my own personal experience in the mountains. You may use the information provided and the GPX track at your own risk; I accept no liability. Remember that the mountains are unforgiving.

Before setting off on your own, study the route carefully, check the weather conditions, and ensure you have suitable equipment and clothing. If you are not experienced, do not go alone; contact a guide instead.